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White House Honey Ale

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*Ingredients** 2 (3.3 lb) cans light malt extract
* 1 lb light dried malt extract
* 12 oz crushed amber crystal malt
* 8 oz Bisquit Malt
* 1 lb White House Honey
* 1 1/2 oz Kent Goldings Hop Pellets
* 1 1/2 oz Fuggles Hop pellets
* 2 tsp gypsum
* 1 pkg Windsor dry ale yeast
* 3/4 cup corn sugar for priming

*Directions*

1) In an 12 qt pot, steep the grains in a hop bag in 1 1/2 gallons of
sterile water at 155 degrees for half an hour. Remove the grains.
2) Add the 2 cans of the malt extract and the dried extract and bring to a
boil.
3) For the first flavoring, add the 1 1/2 oz Kent Goldings and 2 tsp of
gypsum. Boil for 45 minutes.
4) For the second flavoring, add the 1/2 oz Fuggles hop pellets at the last
minute of the boil.
5) Add the honey and boil for 5 more minutes.
6) Add 2 gallons chilled sterile water into the primary fermenter and add
the hot wort into it. Top with more water to total 5 gallons. There is no
need to strain.
7) Pitch yeast when wort temperature is between 70-80˚. Fill airlock
halfway with water.
8) Ferment at 68-72˚ for about seven days.
9) Rack to a secondary fermenter after five days and ferment for 14 more
days.
10) To bottle, dissolve the corn sugar into 2 pints of boiling water for 15
minutes. Pour the mixture into an empty bottling bucket. Siphon the beer
from the fermenter over it. Distribute priming sugar evenly. Siphon into
bottles and cap. Let sit for 2 to 3 weeks at 75˚.

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*White House Honey Ale (5 Gal Extract)*

* 2 canisters Briess Pilsen Light LME (3.3lb ea)
* 1 lb Briess Pilsen Light DME
* .75 lb Crisp (UK) Amber
* .50 lb Chateau (Belgian) Biscuit
* 1 lb Honey
* 1.5 oz East Kent Goldings Hops
* 1.5 oz Fuggle Hops
* 1 pkg Danstar Windsor

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*White House Honey Ale (5 Gal All-Grain)*

* 9.6 lb Briess (US) 2 Row
* .75 lb Crisp (UK) Amber
* .50 lb Chateau (Belgian) Biscuit
* 1 lb Honey
* 1.5 oz East Kent Goldings Hops
* 1.5 oz Fuggle Hops
* 1 pkg Danstar Windsor

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*White House Honey Ale (1 Gal All-Grain)*

* 2 lb Briess (US) 2 Row
* 2.4 oz Crisp (UK) Amber
* 1.6 oz Chateau (Belgian) Biscuit
* 4 Tbsp Honey
* .3 oz East Kent Goldings Hops
* .3 oz Fuggle Hops
* 1 pkg Danstar Windsor

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White House Honey Porter

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*Ingredients** 2 (3.3 lb) cans light unhopped malt extract
* 3/4 lb Munich Malt (cracked)
* 1 lb crystal 20 malt (cracked)
* 6 oz black malt (cracked)
* 3 oz chocolate malt (cracked)
* 1 lb White House Honey
* 10 HBUs bittering hops
* 1/2 oz Hallertaur Aroma hops
* 1 pkg Nottingham dry yeast
* 3/4 cup corn sugar for bottling

*Directions*

1) In a 6 qt pot, add grains to 2.25 qts of 168˚ water. Mix well to bring
temp down to 155˚. Steep on stovetop at 155˚ for 45 minutes. Meanwhile,
bring 2 gallons of water to 165˚ in a 12 qt pot. Place strainer over,
then pour and spoon all the grains and liquid in. Rinse with 2 gallons of
165˚ water. Let liquid drain through. Discard the grains and bring the
liquid to a boil. Set aside.
2) Add the 2 cans of malt extract and honey into the pot. Stir well.
3) Boil for an hour. Add half of the bittering hops at the 15 minute mark,
the other half at 30 minute mark, then the aroma hops at the 60 minute
mark.
4) Set aside and let stand for 15 minutes.
5) Place 2 gallons of chilled water into the primary fermenter and add the
hot wort into it. Top with more water to total 5 gallons if necessary.
Place into an ice bath to cool down to 70-80˚.
6) Activate dry yeast in 1 cup of sterilized water at 75-90˚ for fifteen
minutes. Pitch yeast into the fermenter. Fill airlock halfway with water.
Ferment at room temp (64-68˚) for 3-4 days.
7) Siphon over to a secondary glass fermenter for another 4-7 days.
8) To bottle, make a priming syrup on the stove with 1 cup sterile water and
3/4 cup priming sugar, bring to a boil for five minutes. Pour the mixture
into an empty bottling bucket. Siphon the beer from the fermenter over
it. Distribute priming sugar evenly. Siphon into bottles and cap. Let sit
for 1-2 weeks at 75˚.

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White House Honey Porter (5 Gal Extract)

  • 2 canisters Briess Pilsen Light LME (3.3lb ea)
  • .75 lb Briess (US) Munich 10L
  • 1 lb Briess (US) Caramel 20L
  • .4 lb Briess (US) Black Malt
  • .25 lb Briess (US) Chocolate Malt
  • 2 oz Mt. Hood Hops
  • .5 oz German Hallertau Hops
  • 1 lb Honey
  • 1 pkg Nottingham dry yeast

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White House Honey Porter (5 Gal All-Grain)

  • 9 lb Bairds (UK) Maris Otter
  • .75 lb Briess (US) Caramel 10L
  • 1 lb Briess (US) Caramel 20L
  • .4 lb Briess (US) Black Malt
  • .25 lb Briess (US) Chocolate Malt
  • 2 oz Mt. Hood Hops
  • .5 oz German Hallertau Hops
  • 1 lb Honey
  • 1 pkg Nottingham dry yeast

 

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*White House Honey Porter (1 Gal All-Grain)*

  • 1.8 lb Bairds (UK) Maris Otter
  • .15 lb Briess (US) Caramel 10L
  • .2 lb Briess (US) Caramel 20L
  • .08 lb Briess (US) Black Malt
  • .05 lb Briess (US) Chocolate Malt
  • .4 oz Mt. Hood Hops
  • .1 oz German Hallertau Hops
  • 4 Tbsp Honey
  • 1 pkg Nottingham dry yeast

 

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malt substitution table

Briess Pauls Muntons Fawcett Weyerman Baird Weissheimer DWC MFB
2-Row Pale Pilsen Lager Lager Pilsner Pilsen Pilsen Pilsen
Pale Ale Pale Ale Pale Ale Maris Otter, Halcyon, Optic, Pearl, Golden Promise Pale Ale Pale Ale Pale Ale
Stout Malt Halcyon
Ashburne Mild Ale Mild Ale Vienna Vienna Sp.
Aromatic
Bonlander Munich Munich I Munich Munich Munich
Vienna Vienna Vienna Vienna Vienna
Munich 10 Munich Munich II Munich Munich Dark Munich
Dextrine Carafoam
Victory Amber Amber Melanoidin Biscuit,
Aromatic
Kiln Amber
Crystal 10 Caramalt Carapils CaraMalt Carahell Light
Carastan
Light
Caramel
Carapils Caramel
Pilsen
Crystal 20 Carared Caravienne Caramel
Vienna
Crystal 30 Pale
Crystal Malt
Caramunich
I,Caraamber
Carastan Caramel
Amber
Crystal 40 Light
Crystal
Crystal Malt (40 – 50) Caramunich
II
Carastan Medium
Caramel
Caramel
Munich 40
Crystal 60 Medium
Crystal
Crystal Malt II (60 – 70) Caramunich III Dark
Caramel
Caramunich Caramel
Munich 60
Crystal 80 Dark
Crystal
Dark Crystal (85 – 95) Crystal
Malt
Dark
Caramunich
Caramel
Munich 80
Crystal 90 Dark
Crystal
Crystal 120 Dark
Crystal
Dark Crystal II (118 -124) Caraaroma Dark
Crystal
Special B Caramel
Munich 120
Caraaroma Dark
Crystal
Special
Roast
Brown Malt Brown Malt Kiln Amber
Extra
Special
Kiln Coffee
Pale
Chocolate
Carafa I
Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Carafa II Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate
Black
Patent
Black Malt Black
Patent
Black Malt Carafa III Black Malt Roasted
Malt
Black Malt Kiln Black
Roasted
Barley
Roasted
Barley
Roasted
Barley
Roasted
Barley
Roasted
Barley
Black
Barley
Roasted
Wheat
Chocolate
Wheat
Roasted
Wheat
Roasted
Wheat
Wheat Wheat Wheat Wheat Wheat Wheat
Dark Wheat Dark Wheat
Crystal
Wheat
Carawheat Caramel
Wheat
Roasted Rye Roasted Rye
Rye Malt Rye Malt Rye Malt
Caramel Rye
Malt
Oat Malt
Acidulated
Malt
Acid Malt
Peated Malt Smoked Malt

Great resources for learning more about grains and substitutions:

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Hot Side Aeration: Another thing to (not) worry about.

You may have heard the term “hot side aeration” (or not, I don’t know who you hang out with), a term which refers to the introduction of oxygen into a hot wort that can cause off-flavors and difficulties in aging your beer.

When you brew a batch, you may know that the only time you want to splash your beer is after you chill it and before primary fermentation begins. This time is the aerobic phase of the yeast’s life cycle. At this point, the yeasties are taking a deep breath before heading out the front door to begin the tough work of reproduction, growth, and after all of that getting to work converting all of that sugary wort into beer. The temperature at which you choose to aerate your wort should be at the same temperature you would pitch at. When the beer is sloshed and bubbled at a temperature under 80 degrees you are aerating appropriately. Above 87, you are potentially causing hot side aeration. But is there any danger of hot side aeration at all for the typical homebrewer?

Maybe not. A test run by Brian Warren and John Holder was documented by the Basic Brewing Radio podcast and featured a couple of test brews. After lautering, Warren divided the wort into two half-batches. One was vigorously aerated before the boil. After the boil, the batches were further divided. One half of this was then vigorously whisked. This left the experimenter with a beer that had been aerated after lautering and after the boil, one that was aerated after the lauter and not the boil, one that was left alone after lautering but aerated after the boil, and one that was left the heck alone.

The hallmarks of hot-side aeration include an oily mouth feel, a cardboardy flavor, and/or a strange sweetness. These problems are said to increase with age. The beer that Warren found to be particularly nasty were the samples that had been oxidized immediately after lautering. Though there were flavor differences ‘twixt them all, the only oiliness or gross sweetness were in the two samples of post lauter aeration.

So this is good news for the extract brewer! When handling your beer before it is cooled, you appear to be at a relatively low risk of oxidizing your beer. Your goal should always be clean handling and low amounts of splashing. However, when hot beer was vigorously beaten with a whisk for a full minute immediately following the boil, hot-side aeration was hard to detect. So why worry about one slop or splash? Now, if you’re an all grain guy, take extreme caution in transferring your wort from the tun to the kettle as this appears to be the danger zone for oxidation.

At any rate, there is a simple solution to oxidized beers. Off-flavors worsen with time but may be hard to detect when the beer is first born. So drink away! The sooner you finish that first “meh” batch, the sooner you can put your experience to work and begin crafting your next “wow” beer.

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Why are we boiling?

As a beginning homebrewer, you may be a target for a lot of bad advice. Sometimes kits geared toward beginners will take shortcuts that can grow into bad habits over time. As an extract brewer it is expected that you will boil half of your batch, and the other half of your volume will come from the cool sanitized water that is currently waiting in your fermenter. Depending on the advice you’ve gotten, perhaps you’ve been told you only need to boil your wort for forty-five minutes instead of a full hour. Perhaps it was recommended that you add some malt extract right at knockout. I’d like to take a look at why it’s a good idea to do a full batch boil for your beer, and to make sure you give all of your malt and hops plenty of time in the water. But first, why boil at all?

When we boil our wort, we are doing a few things.  There is “the hot break,” that time where your wort gets all lumpy and gross on the top and wants to foam over like a covered spaghetti pot. What happens here is that some of the protein in your wort is clumping together so that the solid particles can grab each other and fall to the bottom of your kettle. This action is responsible for some of the mess you see at the bottom when you pour your wort out. The longer and more active your boil, the more you will form these compounds. This will help clarify your beer, allowing greater shelf life. This can take twenty minutes to happen depending on the strength of your boil, so it’s a good idea to give your malt extracts at least this much time for it’s protein to coagulate and drop out. Plus, it needs to boil at least ten minutes to kill any bacteria who have taken up residence in there.  This ten minute rule explains how it can be risky to add hops or extract at “knockout,” or after the majority of the boil*.

More importantly (or less, depending on your perspective), boiling allows your hops to contribute their alpha acids. For some reason, the hops don’t want us to do that. It takes a good deal of time and effort to extract the goodies from hops, and there are several things that can help you to do it. First of all, you need an hour long boil to achieve even a quarter of your hops’ alpha acid potential. Boiling any less than that reduces your alpha acid utilization even further, and boiling beyond that time mostly seems to offer less and less reward.

Now to the point of full volume boils, that is to say boiling your entire wort in one kettle all at once. Partial boils are concentrated, and when you add it to the water in your fermenter you are essentially diluting it. Dilution does some interesting things.

First, dilution does not lighten color as much as you’d expect it to. For the casual homebrewer this is not a big deal. But for the Pilsner purists, you need a bigger kettle. Furthermore, when you dilute your wort you cut the IBUs from your kettle in half. Think about that. Your malt was concentrated, but your hops weren’t. The same thing is happening to your aroma hops. The wort picked up as much smell and flavor as it’s volume allowed, then it was cut in half by dilution. Once again, fine for the casual brewer. But for the hop heads? Get a bigger kettle!

At any rate, it’s up to you. You’re in charge of your beer and entitled to treat it how you will. Whether you’re doing full or partial boils, all-grain or extract, try to keep an eye out for why you do what you do.

 

* It should be noted, however, that these additions at knockout serve a purpose.  Adding hops at knockout allows those hoppy fellas to contribute aromatics and little to no alpha acids.  Adding malt extract at knockout prevents the darkening of color that can occur as it is boiled.

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Getting Started with Yeast Starters

The best way to take your brewing to the next level is the increased care in cleaning and sanitizing your gear. That’s boring to read about though, so I’m gonna share with you another easy way to improve your homebrew. Make a starter!

Liquid yeast cultures advertise that they have 100 billion viable yeast cells in each tube or smack pack. That’s a big number. But how many yeast cells does five gallons of beer need? Sorry to get technical, but it depends on the gravity of your wort. You want 750,000 cells of yeast per millimeter of wort, per degree Plato of gravity. Now if you have a hydrometer, instead of degrees Plato you may substitute the number value listed for Brix as it appears on the hydrometer.

If you’re pitching into a wort of 1.040, or around 10 degrees plato, you need 150,000,000,000 viable, living yeast cells… and double that for a lager! I hate math, so let’s ballpark it. This is around 4 billion cells per point of gravity in around a five gallon batch (again, double that for a lager).

Now, is it essential that you make a starter for every batch? Absolutely not. But if you do, the yeasties can spend less time reproducing and more time doing the work of making your beer. Also, when the gravity is high and there are lots of fermentables to eat, it’s good to pitch at a higher rate to ensure all the stuff is eaten. This is why some clever brewers will start a stout or other high gravity beer on top of the leftover yeast from a recently racked batch of lighter beer. The first beer was a starter!

So, how do you make a yeast starter? Luckily it is easier to make than it is to explain why you should make it. One to three days before brewing prepare your yeast as you’re used to. As the pack is swelling or the vial is warming or the dried stuff is hydrating, take a little more than a pint of water and bring it to a boil. You’re gonna make a tiny wort for your yeastmen and yeastwomen to eat up! Boil a half cup of extra light malt extract for ten minutes. If you have yeast nutrient (a good idea), throw it in for the same amount of time. Cool this like you would any beer, pour it into a sanitized growler or bottle, aerate the wort by shaking, pitch your yeast, and affix a sanitized airlock and stopper. You’re just making a small beer. You’re used to this. After the one to three days, it’s ready to pitch. If you are worried about the starter affecting beer flavor, you can chill the starter in the fridge. The yeast will settle to the bottom of the bottle. You can easily pour out the beer, retain the yeast, and then pitch it all into your beer.

Do this and you’ll get quicker, cleaner fermentations. Really.

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The Brew Camp Field Guide to Beer: Porters and Stouts

Editor’s note: It is important that any beer enthusiast be able to properly identify different styles of beer as they are encountered in the wild. And more so, it is important for any novice brewer’s continued growth and success that he or she can distinguish between even closely related varieties as they endeavor to create them. It is with these noble goals in mind that we present the first in our series.

Whereas November 3, 2011 had been declared by parties of some authority to be International Stout Day, the purpose of which had been declared as “to celebrate the iconic beer style, Stout”, it is only fitting that the Field Guide turns it brief yet informative lens toward these dark treasures.

Porters and Stouts

The categories of dark beers commonly referred to as porters or stouts are quite similar, and in fact, the labels themselves have recent become essentially interchangeable.

The first recorded use of the name porter was in the early 1700′s to describe a dark beer that was popular with street and river porters of London.  The name stout was originally a casual term used to refer to the stronger, or “stouter” varieties of porter.  Eventually, in many circles, the word stout simply replaced the word porter and referred to any of the various dark beers now called either stout or porter.

Today, there is a great deal of disagreement amongst brewers regarding what, if anything, is the difference between stouts and porters.  In terms of appearance, flavor, and aroma, there is historically no difference between varieties that have been alternately labeled one or the other.  In regards to modern recipes, not even the original differentiation of strength seems to apply any more.

Indeed, the beer enthusiast will quickly note that all stouts and porters share certain qualities, the most notable being their rich brown color and malty and roasty flavors.

But even if the labels porter and stout are essentially interchangeable, there are a variety of styles that they both encompass, the most popular of which appear below.

Brown Porter

First discovered in the late 16th century, the common brown porter’s original habitat was southeastern England (specifically London), but the style has now spread across the globe and should be fairly easy to spot.

Known as a variety for its distinctive brown color, individual brown porters may range from light to dark brown in the body, and will feature an off-white head.

When studying a brown porter, the taster should expect a malty and mild roasted flavor, with nearly no distinct hop flavor and rather low hop bitterness.  More advanced drinkers will note a medium-bodied mouthfeel and moderate carbonation. Typical brown porters specimens will weigh in with an ABV between 4 – 5.5 percent.

OBSERVATION TIPS: In the wild, brown porters can be differentiated from brown ales by their richer substance and “roastier” qualities.  If a novice taster is unsure whether she is observing a common brown or a robust porter, she should note that brown porters are generally sweeter with a more “caramel” quality, and with lower alcohol content.

LOOK FOR:  Fuller’s London Porter

Robust Porter

The robust porter variety has many of the same qualities as the common brown, and can often be found sharing the same habitats.  However, it differs in that individuals will often feature a black patent malt character and will often be higher in alcohol content.

When seeking out a robust porter, keep your senses attuned for a moderately strong roasted and malty aroma and a darker brown body color, occasionally with ruby highlights.  Note that some individual robusts may approach black in body color.  This variety is known for having a full tan-colored head.

Tasting a robust porter will most often result in a strong malty sensation, with a lightly burnt and somewhat “sharp” character accompanied by rather high hop bitterness.  Some individuals may exhibit chocolate or coffee characteristics.

A typical robust porter will feature an ABV figure between 5 and 6.5 percent.

LOOK FOR: Sierra Nevada Porter, Bell’s Porter, Rogue Mocha Porter

Baltic Porter

The breeding grounds of the elusive Baltic porter are traditionally located in the Scandanavian nations and some areas of eastern Europe.  However, an intrepid brewer or enthusiast may be able to locate and identify a Baltic porter much closer to home.

To spot one, first look for a brew with a dark reddish copper to dark brown body and a thick tan-colored head.  The careful observer will note a rich, sweet aroma with malty caramel overtones, often punctuated with fruity ester notes that may recall plums or cherries.

Upon closer approach, the enthusiast will experience a complex blend of flavor sensations, with many reports of sweet, fruity flavors mixing with dark malty “goodness” and slightly spicy hops.  Some individual Baltics may exhibit roast coffee, molasses, or even licorice notes. The variety as a whole is well known for its higher alcohol content, most often between 7 and 9.5 percent ABV.

DID YOU KNOW?: Some experts may refer to the Baltic porter as an Imperial porter.

LOOK FOR: Zywiec Porter, Southampton Imperial Baltic Porter

Irish Stout

An enthusiast hoping to observe and enjoy the famed Irish stout (also known as the “Dry Stout”) should have little trouble, as this fairly common species, originally native to Ireland, is easily spotted in tavern and shops throughout the world.

By looking for a very dark brown to jet black body, with a thick, creamy tan or brown colored head, the amateur beer enthusiast is well on his way to nabbing an Irish stout.  He should expect a rich roasted barley and malt aroma, perhaps accompanied by a slight chocolate hint.

When tasting an Irish, one will note a moderately roasty and slightly sour taste with medium to high hop bitterness.  Some individuals may exhibit a bittersweet chocolate flavor as well as a moderate creaminess.  Carbonation is generally low across the breed.

A typical Irish stout will measure a standard 4 to 5 percent ABV.

LOOK FOR: Guinness Stout, Murphy’s Stout, Goose Island Dublin Stout, Brooklyn Dry Stout

Sweet Stout

Traditionally spotted mainly in England, the Sweet Stout can now often be found in North America, recognized mostly for its full body and sweet creaminess.

The sweet stout appears very dark brown or black in color, and features a creamy tan or brown head.  It often emits a mildly roast aroma with little or no hint of hops, and some individuals have been known to exhibit hints of chocolate or coffee notes.

Tasting a sweet stout is often a complex experience, with rich dark roasted grain and malt flavors offset with a medium or even intense sweetness.  The observer can expect a moderate hoppy bitterness to accompany the creamy texture.

A typical Sweet stout will register between 4 and 6 percent on the ABV scale.

DID YOU KNOW?: The sweet stout has also been historically called the “Milk” stout or “Cream” stout in many regions of the world.  These appellations refer to the distinct quantities of unfermentable sugars they contain (often lactose, the primary sugar in dairy products).

LOOK FOR: Mackeson’s XXX Stout, St. Peter’s Cream Stout

Oatmeal Stout

The proud oatmeal stout is another species that was originally discovered in England but has since found footholds in other parts of the world. As with other members of the stout family, an enthusiast seeking an oatmeal should keep their eyes open for a medium-brown to black body.  Oatmeal stouts are generally known to feature a distinctively thick and creamy head, dark tan or brown in color.

Upon approach, the observer will note an aroma of mild roasted grains and a distinct sweetness.  Despite the name, an oatmeal aroma is not necessarily present in all individuals, which can make identification difficult without drinking.

When obtained, the oatmeal stout indeed makes for quite a satisfying taste experience, as it delivers a complex mix of roasted grains and oats, which impart a nutty, earthy flavor.  An experienced brewer will note a nice malt sweetness, occasionally with chocolate, coffee, or cream notes, and a medium to low hop bitterness.

OBSERVATION TIPS: The amount of oatmeal flavor and aroma can vary quite wildly from one individual to the next, although a typical specimen would contain perhaps 5 to 15 percent oat grains.  Higher oatmeal concentrations may lend an intense flavor and an oily texture.

Look For: Young’s Oatmeal Stout, Goose Island Oatmeal Stout, Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout

We hope that this brief primer on this popular beer style has been useful to novice and experienced beer enthusiasts alike.  Happy hunting!

Recommended Additional Reading

So What is the Difference Between Porter and Stout?

 

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Why Brew?

It is a question that is as old as the hills.  Rare is the brewer who is not, at some point or another, approached by someone outside our grand fraternity of beer craftsmen who has not experienced the joy of tasting a delicious brew he or she has made themselves, and been asked, simply:

Why?

They may furrow their brows and ask, “Why do you go through all that, just for beer?  Why, when you can just pop down to the supermarket or beer speciality shop and choose from dozens or even hundreds of beers, would you want to go through all that effort?  Why deal with the mess and the equipment and waste all that time?  Why?”

Even the most dubious beer enthusiast must admit that any pastime from which the end result is delicious beer is inherently superior to other hobbies.  Beer, of course, is good.  Yet the question persists.

The experienced brewer will note that the questioner is suffering from ignorance borne from a whole host of misconceptions – that brewing is difficult, or expensive, or tedious.  It is precisely these misconceptions that ought to be dispelled as quickly as possible.

The discussion points that follow are intended to enhance the home brewer’s response to the question of why.

Brewing is cheap.  Honest.

After a modest initial investment in the basic tools of the trade, the beginning brewer will shortly realize that the few ingredients needed to make beer are actually quite inexpensive. There are but four vital components of beer, none of which can be considered exorbitant: malted grains or malt extract, hops, yeast, and water.

Popular beer kits, containing all the ingredients apart from water that a beginning brewer needs to make five gallons of beer, can often cost as little as thirty dollars.  Such a yield is approximately equivalent to 53 regular 12oz bottles, or almost 9 six packs.  It should be evident that after only a few batches of brew, a home brewer can “come out ahead” when it comes to monetary expenses.  And, of course, he or she will be consistently enjoying a superior product.

At this point, if the doubting drinker mentions, in the way of a counter-argument, a particularly inexpensive brand of beer, often available in large and rather boorish packs of cans, it will be obvious to the brewer that a larger intervention is required to rescue the palate of the poor soul.  Whereas this is far beyond the purview of this discussion, we recommend enlisting the additional help of friends or relatives who may be able to help them see the error of their ways.

As for equipment, once a brewer has a few batches “under his belt” he can grow his setup as much or as little as desired.  Indeed, there are plenty of gadgets one can invest in, many of which are great and worthwhile, but the absolute basics are simple. Starting with a large pot, a large spoon, a few buckets, a thermometer, a hydrometer, some siphon hose, and the beginning brewer is well on the way to creating beer.

And, while not an ingredient and not exactly “equipment”, cleanser is also critical.  We have all heard the saying that cleanliness is next to godliness.  This is at least partially true because cleanliness results in better beer.

As for bottles, an enthusiast can actually just save empty beer bottles, and purchase new caps cost that cost just pennies. Of course, one will need to clean re-used bottles very well (see above).  An important tip: one should save only those bottles that originally had “pry-off” caps, as the “screw-off” bottles cannot be re-capped.

After a new brewer’s first few batches, she will come to realize that the  greatest investment is actually her time.

Brewing is fun.

Yes, when one applies themselves to the noble art of brewing, one is most often graced with beer.  With just a little practice, one achieves really, really good beer.  But that is only half the point.  The brewing process is actually a really enjoyable way to spend one’s free time, making it a great hobby for the right-minded people.

A couple of things to note straight away:

Brewing is not difficult.  Not anymore difficult than following a simple recipe step by step.  And, like cooking, it is something that you get better at with practice.

Brewing is not magic.  Not anymore magic than noodles and broth making soup.

If one has any kind of basic competence and reasonable control of one’s faculties, they are perfectly able make your their beer.

And, as it turns out, brewing is something that can be a ton of fun to do with friends. It doesn’t hurt that some steps, like bottling, for example, can actually be a little easier with a second – or third – set of hands.

Now, granted, unlike baking cookies, a brewer is not going to be enjoying the fruits of his or her labor right away.  But on that special day when the brew is ready, the experienced brewer knows that there is nothing quite like sharing it.  And when a novice is ready to dive into the creation of the second batch – and as any brewer will attest, he or she most certainly will want to, as in brewing as in many other facets of life, success breeds success -  enjoying the previous batch as one works makes it all the better.

Plus, the brewer knows the pure enjoyment of experimentation.  Because any single batch of beer doesn’t require a great deal of monetary investment, if a brewer is bold, she will make minor tweaks to recipes, both in ingredients and techniques. Yes, it is true that upon occasion, a brewer may experience a batch that doesn’t quite turn out exactly as expected.  However, one should never be discouraged with any results, since barring some major goof or spectacularly misguided idea, the result will always be beer, and therefore will always be good.

A brewer creates something unique.

As a novice brewer soon comes to realize, despite its simplicity, the brewing process contains a number of variables, and relatively minor tweaks can produce different results.  Boiling time, fermentation temperature, and of course, variations in ingredients along with a lot of other little things can all result in slightly different beers, with different colors, aromas, flavors.

The point is, when one makes her own beer, it is hers.  Nobody else in the world – not the guy who bought another six pack shipped from the mega-brewery in St. Louis, not even the guy who brews with the same equipment and ingredients – will be enjoying her particular brew.  Unless of course you she shares it with them, a decision that Brew Camp naturally whole-heartedly endorses.

And the brewer can always customize his beer to suit his particular tastes.  If he enjoys extremely hoppy pale ales, beyond what any sane person would consider reasonable, he is encouraged to create it.  If she wants something sweet and fruity, there is nothing preventing her from achieving it except her own limitations.  If a brewer truly believes that he can make a better stout than Guinness, then he almost certainly can, because…

Beer tastes better when one brews it at home.

Even if a brewer uses precisely the same recipe and the same ingredients and are successful in attempting to recreate a favorite big-brewery beer, the product from the home brewer will taste better.  Commercial brews are almost always pasteurized, which cooks the beer and kills off all the yeast.  Home brewed beer is “live” – meaning that is still contains that live yeast – and therefore tastes more natural, more pure.  In a word, better.  Plus, home brewed beer can actually “age” over time, changing slightly in texture and flavor.

So a home brewer will know that when she opens that beer and hands it to a friend, they’ll be impressed.  Which suggests the best reason of all:

There is a special pride a brewer takes in creating his own beer.

Any master brewer will attest: there is nothing like sharing one’s own beer with others.  They know the pride of watching skeptics turn into believers with the first sip, of passing their latest creation over to eager hands who can’t wait to see what they’ve come up with now, of , taking only a little pleasure from the disappointment groaned when the “good stuff” has run out, and of being able to smile and say, “Don’t worry, I’ll make more.”

Regardless of what else a home brewer accomplishes during her day, no matter what she does for a living, when she cracks open a beer that she made herself, she knows that she has produced with her own hands and her own knowledge something real, something wonderful.  Something delicious and good and satisfying.

That is home brewing.  That is real beer, and welcome to it.

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Equipment Corner: Hydrometers

Here at Brew Camp, part of our mission is to help educate home brewers about the techniques and equipment used in the art of brewing.

One such piece of equipment is the hydrometer which, quite simply put, measures the density of a liquid.  And why, you ask, would you care much about the density of a liquid?  Well, read on, my friend.  Read on…

The Gravity of the Situation

If you’ve ever carefully perused a beer recipe, you’ve probably seen notations about the Original Gravity (OG) and Final Gravity (FG) listed in there somewhere.  This doesn’t refer to how the beer changes when you drink it on the moon (although we must admit, that’s something we’ve always wanted to try).  When brewers use the word gravity, it simply refers to the brew’s density.

On the gravity scale, the standard reference is pure water, which has a specific gravity of 1.000.  All other liquids are compared against this number.  Finished beers usually show up in a range between 1.005 (a little denser) and 1.015 (quite a bit denser).

Original Gravity refers to the density of your wort, which of course is going to be much higher, as it has all of that delicious sugar from the malted grains or malt extract dissolved into it (not to mention any additional sugars that the recipe may have used), making it somewhat “thick” or syrupy.

Final Gravity refers to the density of the finished beer, after it has been fermented.  You’ll find that the FG will be a lot less – usually about 20% to 25% of the original gravity.

And what is it that causes this dramatic reduction in the density?  Why, it’s the magic of fermentation!  The yeast busily converts the sugars in the wort into alcohol, which of course is less dense.  This conversion is called attenuation, and it is what makes beer, beer.

And therefore, while you may officially be measuring your brew’s density, what the figures can actually tell you is how much of your sugar has been converted, and therefore, how much alcohol content is in your beer.

And that, dear brewer, is why you care about liquid density.  And that is why you use a hydrometer.

Okay, so what is it, exactly?

The most common type of hydrometer is hollow glass tube, sort of like a thermometer, with a weight at the bottom end.  It works rather simply, by floating higher in a more dense liquid, and sinking down a little bit more in a less dense liquid.

There are a few scales that a hydrometer might include, but the most common for our purposes is the Specific Gravity.  Again, this is much like a thermometer, as noting where the liquid crosses the marked scale gives you the reading.

There are other instruments that can measure gravity and alcohol levels, but none are as cost-effective as the simple hydrometer.

 

When and how do I check?

Hydrometer readings should be recorded both before and after fermentation.

When your wort has cooled sufficiently to pour into the fermenter, grab a sample and perform your first test.  (Before pitching the yeast!)  This will give you your OG reading, which you will then compare to the reading when fermentation is complete.

You generally want to keep the fermenter closed as much as possible during fermenation, to keep foreign material and contaminating microbes out of the beer.  So check the gravity right before pitching the yeast, and then just… wait until fermentation is complete (you know – the bubbling stops) before checking again.  We know this can be hard, but be strong.

Always remove a small sample of the brew to perform the test.  You don’t want to stick your hydrometer into the whole batch.  Use a sanitized wine thief (basically a specialized sort of long turkey baster – a regular turkey baster can work as well) or siphon to move a sample into a testing jar.  You might want to use a special Hydrometer Jar.  It’s tall and narrow and ideal for the job. Make sure your jar and your hydrometer are all sanitized too!

Taking a sample helps to reduce the risk of contamination, and after the test you’ll really have no choice but to drink the sample to see how the batch is doing.

Lower your hydrometer into the jar and let it settle.  You’ll want it to be floating straight up and down and not touching the sides of the jar.  If you’ve got foam at the top or bubbles anywhere in the liquid, give it swirl and wait for them to dissipate.

When it’s steady, get down at eye level and read the scale where the water level crosses it.  You might recall from high school chemistry class that liquid can form a “meniscus” or curve, in the top surface as it adheres to the inside containers.  Traditionally, most folks read the measurement at the bottom of the curve, although some people disagree.

I was told there would be no math!

One more fact about a liquid’s gravity, and it’s a real important one: it changes with temperature.

Most hydrometers are calibrated to deliver accurate results at 59 degrees F.  If the liquid you’re measuring is warmer or cooler (which will probably be the case), you’ll need to adjust by adding or subtracting a few percentage points to the gravity.

Often hydrometers will come with a conversion table in the instructions, but there are plenty of online resource, including tables and calculators.

Therefore, once you’ve got your reading, pluck out the hydrometer and immediately take the temperature of the liquid.  Then use this temperature to adjust the gravity reading as mentioned above.

And now you can calculate your alcohol content by doing a little math.  Stop worrying… we said a LITTLE math.  Do not be afraid.  Use a calculator.

Your ABV (alcohol by volume) can be calculated with this formula:

(OG – FG) x 131.25 = ABV%

In English: subtract your final gravity reading from your original gravity reading, then multiply that number by the magical number 131.25.

So you can see that a hydrometer is an invaluable tool for the home brewer, delivering a lot of important information about the status of your brew.  Be sure to check the readings before and after fermentation, and you’ll be well on your way to enjoying the perfect batch from your favorite recipes.

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Red Meat and Dark Beer

If you like brewing and you like drinking delicious beer (and we’ll just go ahead and assume that) you know that nothing you can buy comes close to what you can make yourself with the right recipe.

You, like us, might also agree that this applies to food, too. From time to time, we thought it might be nice to highlight some recipes that use beer as a featured ingredient.

Refined individuals have been pairing brews with meat for centuries, whether it has been mead with mutton or light lager with hot dogs. (Although we’re told there is some argument whether those last two entries actually qualify as “beer” or “meat”.)

To our mind, one of the best things you can do today with a nice bottle of dark beer is lend it to a nice beef stew (so long as it isn’t your last bottle). When adding a rich, malty flavor to your meat, you really can’t go wrong. As the weather starts to get colder, there are few things more satisfying than a hearty beer-infused beef stew. Here is a nice variation.

By they way, whatever brew you end up using, be sure to save some and serve it extra cold with the meal. We also recommend that your menu includes that “other” use for yeast – a nice crusty bread.

Beef Stew With Brown Ale

This was originally adapted from a British recipe, and so it specifically called for using Newcastle which of course is tasty, but we’re hoping you’ll use whatever your favorite brown ale is… maybe one you’ve crafted yourself.

Also, the original recipe suggested using “beef shins”, which didn’t sound remotely appealing (or available in the supermarket), so we stuck with Ye Olde Stew Meat.  The rest of the ingredients:

 

  • Chunky stew meat – about 2 pounds
  • 3 Tablespoons flour
  • Olive oil
  • 3 red onions, peeled, halved and roughly sliced
  • 2 ounces pancetta or bacon, chopped
  • 3 sticks of celery, chopped
  • A few sprigs of fresh rosemary, leaves picked from stem
  • 5 cups brown ale
  • 2 parsnips, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 4 potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
  • Sea salt and freshly ground pepper (if you’re snooty… plain salt and pepper, otherwise)

Combine the flour with a healthy dose of salt and pepper on a plate, and then toss the beef around in it until well coated.

Heat a little olive oil in a medium-high pan, and fry the chunks of meat on all sides until nice and brown. You may need to work in a couple batches to get it all done.

Transfer the meat to a big pot or dutch oven — whatever large pot you’ve got (with a lid) that can go on the cooktop burner. (We know what you’re thinking, but a 20 quart might be a little big for this job.) Toss in whatever extra flour you’ve got left.

Over medium heat, add the red onions and pancetta or bacon, and cook until the onions are translucent and the pancetta has a bit of color.

Next add your celery and rosemary, and then pour in the main event: the brown ale.

Next add about 1 and 1/2 cups of water, as well as the parsnips, carrots, and potatoes. (If you’ve got any other favorite stew veggies, go ahead and add or replace.)

Bring the whole deal to the boil, then cover and reduce to a low simmer. Let it cook for 2 hours, checking now and then to make sure that it tastes good.

Enjoy!

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